Anthony Bourdain in Lisbon: restaurants and fado

Ramiro, O Trevo, Tasca do Chico and more: explore Anthony Bourdain's Lisbon from No Reservations, with filming locations and ideas for a two-day visit.

Seafood at Ramiro, a bifana on Praça Luís de Camões and fado in Bairro Alto: Anthony Bourdain's Lisbon unfolds through meals and conversations. He filmed No Reservations in December 2011 with chefs, musicians and novelist António Lobo Antunes. The episode aired in 2012, during Portugal's financial crisis.

Many stops are within Chiado, Bairro Alto and Cais do Sodré. Ramiro, the market in Alvalade and Henrique Sá Pessoa's present-day restaurant take you further afield.

Ramiro: seafood, followed by a prego

At Cervejaria Ramiro, Bourdain joins José Avillez and Henrique Sá Pessoa for goose barnacles, langoustines, prawns and other seafood. They finish with a prego, a thin beef-steak sandwich ordered as “dessert” in the episode.

Address: Avenida Almirante Reis 1. Ramiro: visits and reservations. Leave time for the meal and a possible wait.

O Trevo and A Ginjinha: two quick stops

At O Trevo on Praça Luís de Camões, Bourdain eats a bifana, a roll filled with thin slices of marinated pork. It is an easy stop between Chiado and Bairro Alto.

A Ginjinha is on Largo de São Domingos near Rossio. Here he tries the sour-cherry liqueur that gives the bar its name. Both places fit into a walk through central Lisbon.

Addresses: O Trevo, Praça Luís de Camões 48; A Ginjinha, Largo de São Domingos 8.

Tasca do Chico: a conversation with Lobo Antunes

At Tasca do Chico, Bourdain talks to António Lobo Antunes while Carminho sings. It is one of the moments when the meal gives way to listening.

Filming took place at the Bairro Alto tavern. Check its fado schedule when planning a visit; the second branch in Alfama is a different location.

Address: Rua do Diário de Notícias 39, Bairro Alto.

Sol e Pesca: tinned fish with Dead Combo

In a former fishing-tackle shop in Cais do Sodré, Bourdain meets Tó Trips and Pedro Gonçalves of Dead Combo. Their music runs through the episode, while the meal here centres on tinned fish.

Address: Rua Nova do Carvalho 44. Sol e Pesca fits into an evening that continues in Bairro Alto, with an uphill walk between the two.

Bistro 100 Maneiras and Cantinho do Avillez

Bourdain eats with Ljubomir Stanišić at the bistro on Largo da Trindade. This is the filming location; the fine-dining restaurant 100 Maneiras is a separate address.

At Cantinho do Avillez, he eats with José Avillez and Tozé Brito. Dishes include morcela, blood sausage; peixinhos da horta, battered green beans; and pig's trotters. The two meals offer different views of Lisbon's restaurant scene at the time.

Addresses: Bistro 100 Maneiras, Largo da Trindade 9; Cantinho do Avillez, Rua dos Duques de Bragança 7. Check each restaurant for current menus and booking arrangements.

Mercado de Alvalade Norte: a neighbourhood market

Henrique Sá Pessoa takes Bourdain shopping at Mercado de Alvalade Norte. This market in northern Lisbon is a place to buy fish, meat, fruit and vegetables.

Address: Rua José Duro, Alvalade. Allow a morning for the visit and check current trading days.

Alma and Henrique Sá Pessoa: the location has changed

At the original Alma, Sá Pessoa cooks mackerel, bacalhau and suckling pig for Bourdain. The restaurant has since changed location: after a later address in Chiado, the chef now runs a restaurant under his own name in Páteo Bagatela. The episode was not filmed at the new address.

To try his cooking today, check Henrique Sá Pessoa's website for reservations and service times.

Current address: Travessa da Légua da Póvoa 11, Páteo Bagatela.

Choosing stops for two days

Start with O Trevo, lunch in Chiado and Sol e Pesca. Plan an evening at Tasca do Chico around its fado schedule. On the second day, visit Alvalade, return through Rossio and eat at Ramiro. Give a tasting menu at Henrique Sá Pessoa its own reserved slot.

The octopus-fishing trip and meal with a fishing family were private encounters arranged for the programme. They are not stops you can book.

Bourdain's earlier Portuguese journey takes you north: Anthony Bourdain in Porto. The dishes in this guide describe the Lisbon episode; confirm today's menus and opening hours directly.

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