Slovenia: Nebesa Chalets and Grad Otočec
Four chalets for two, almost 1,000 metres up above the Soča Valley, and a castle hotel on an island in the Krka in the south-east: two very different places to stay in Slovenia.
Slovenia is small, but its corners are very different. In the west rise the Julian Alps above the turquoise Soča. In the south-east, in Dolenjska, the Krka winds through low hills and vineyards.
Nebesa and Grad Otočec lie at opposite ends of the country, with Ljubljana roughly in between. You can combine them on one trip, but allow time for the drive across.
Nebesa: above the valley
Nebesa, Slovene for heaven, sits almost 1,000 metres up above the village of Livek near Kobarid, looking towards the Julian Alps. There are four chalets of wood, stone and glass, each about 55 square metres with its own kitchen and meant for two adults. Architect Rok Klanjšček drew on alpine shepherds’ villages. The first guests arrived at Christmas 2003, on a slope where a ski hut once stood and where the Roš daughters learned to ski.
There is no restaurant. Guests put together their own breakfast from what is provided, and snacks, house wine and other drinks are set out in shared spaces and the wine cellar; selected bottles cost extra, and hot meals can be ordered from a caterer in advance. Three saunas, Finnish, herbal and infrared, and a Kneipp corner are shared. For dinner in the valley there is a family link: chef Ana Roš of Hiša Franko, about 15 minutes away by car, is the sister of host Maja Roš Kanellopulos. Nebesa can arrange transport, but a table there is not part of the stay.
Grad Otočec: the castle in the river
In Dolenjska, near Novo mesto, Otočec Castle stands on a small island in the Krka, reached by a bridge. Today it is a castle hotel and a member of Relais & Châteaux.
Where Nebesa is about the view and looking after yourself, Otočec is a hotel stay with service and a restaurant in the castle. Dolenjska is also the home of Cviček, a light, tart red blend worth trying while you are in the region.
Practical
Arrive via Ljubljana, or via Zagreb if you start with the castle. In winter, agree access and arrival times with Nebesa beforehand: the road is cleared early in the morning, and reception is not staffed around the clock. If you want dinner at Hiša Franko, reserve it separately.
