Anthony Bourdain in Istria: oysters, truffles and fish

Follow Anthony Bourdain through Istria, from oysters on the Lim Channel to truffles at Mondo and seafood at Batelina. Addresses and trip-planning tips.

Raw oysters beside the water, truffle pasta in a hill town and a seafood dinner that makes use of the less familiar cuts: Anthony Bourdain's Istrian journey revolves around a handful of places. Croatian chef Mate Janković joined him for the 2012 No Reservations episode “Croatian Coast”. The programme later moves on to Dalmatia; this guide follows its Istrian stops.

Allow two days to connect them comfortably. Rovinj and the Lim Channel are on the west coast, Batelina is near Pula in the south, and Motovun is inland. A car makes the journey much easier.

Rovinj: starting on the coast

Bourdain begins in Rovinj, walking through the old town with Janković before heading for the Lim Channel. The lanes below the Church of St Euphemia make a good starting point for a visit of your own, with time to explore before continuing to the water.

The Lim Channel: oysters with Emil Sošić

In the narrow inlet north of Rovinj, fisherman and shellfish farmer Emil Sošić serves Bourdain raw oysters and mussels cooked with olive oil, garlic, white wine and breadcrumbs. There is very little between the catch and the meal.

Sošić's business is called Istrida. Arrange a visit and agree on the meeting point before travelling. A sightseeing cruise into the Lim Channel does not necessarily include the oyster farm featured in the episode.

Plan your visit: Limski kanal, municipality of Kanfanar. Call +385 98 414 512 to agree on the appointment, meeting point and payment arrangements.

Konoba Mondo: truffles in Motovun

After a truffle hunt, Bourdain eats at Konoba Mondo below Motovun's town walls. His meal includes fritaja, an Istrian omelette with white truffle and sausage, and fuži with butter, ham and truffle. The rolled pasta is a useful introduction to the region's cooking.

Leave time to walk around Motovun as well as eat. If you want to join a truffle hunt, book it separately; the outing shown on television was arranged for the production.

Plan your visit: Barbican 1, Motovun. Konoba Mondo: website and reservations, phone +385 52 681 791. The restaurant lists daily opening from noon to 10pm; confirm before travelling outside the main season.

Konoba Batelina: seafood in Banjole

In Banjole, Bourdain goes out to sea with David Skoko. Dinner at Konoba Batelina includes bonito, shark liver and monkfish tripe. Bourdain's description of “trash fish” refers to overlooked fish and cuts that fishing families have long valued.

That is what makes this stop memorable: the meal is built around making use of the catch. The episode's dishes record one visit, rather than a menu you should expect to order today.

Plan your visit: Čimulje 25, Banjole, phone +385 52 573 767. Ask the restaurant about reservations, opening days and payment. Batelina in the Michelin Guide.

Putting the trip together

Spend the first morning in Rovinj, followed by a prearranged visit to the Lim Channel. Batelina could follow that evening if you have a confirmed table. Give the second day to Motovun, with a booked truffle hunt in the morning, lunch at Mondo and time to explore the town.

Build the itinerary around confirmed appointments. Driving across Istria and joining a truffle hunt take more time than the map alone suggests.

Staying near Bale

Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery, near Bale between Rovinj and Pula, is a possible base. The wine estate and hotel is CINCIN's accommodation suggestion for this trip; it was not a filming location.

The meals described here belong to Bourdain's television visit. Menus, access arrangements and opening hours may have changed.

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