Where to stay on São Miguel: north coast or south coast
Choosing where to stay on São Miguel starts with choosing a coast: a dark sand beach and tea fields in the north, cliffs and Ponta Delgada in the south. Two houses compared.
When you look for a place to stay on São Miguel, the first decision is not the hotel but the coast. The largest island of the Azores has two very different sides. On the north coast near Ribeira Grande there is a long beach of dark volcanic sand, and further east tea fields run up the slopes. In the south the coast drops to the sea in rock, Ponta Delgada sits there, and on the edge of town stand the greenhouses of the pineapple plantations.
For each side we introduce one house from our selection. Both belong to Singular Properties, the group of João and Catarina Reis, yet they are made for very different trips.
North coast: Santa Bárbara, the beach below the terrace
Santa Bárbara sits directly above Praia de Santa Bárbara, considered one of the best known surf beaches on the island. The house opened on 1 June 2015, according to the hotel as the first eco beach resort in the Azores. Its low buildings stand between meadows and are clad in cryptomeria, cork and bamboo.
Staying here is closer to a holiday apartment with hotel service: 30 units, all with a kitchenette and living area. There are 14 studios of 50 m², seven one bedroom villas of 68 m² and nine two bedroom villas of 98 m². The Blue & Green Studios share a saltwater plunge pool, every other category has its own hot tub. The larger villas sleep up to six.
The resort has its own farm of about one hectare. According to the hotel, vegetables and herbs for the day menu are picked daily; the restaurant menus are overseen by the Portuguese chef Vítor Sobral as consulting chef. The wellness area has an indoor pool, a gym, massages and yoga. The beach club on the sand is closed from November to May, according to the hotel.
Nearby: the Tukátulá beach bar on Praia de Santa Bárbara, the Chá Porto Formoso tea factory with a tasting or, on foot, the loop trail through the tea fields at Gorreana. For an evening out, Quinta dos Sabores near Rabo de Peixe is a restaurant on a farm, open Tuesday to Saturday evenings according to the owners, reservation recommended.
The north coast suits you if you want to be in the water, need space or travel with children.
South coast: WHITE, a small house above the cliffs
WHITE sits near Lagoa on the rocky coast, not on a sandy beach. The house joins the surviving stone walls of an old summer house with bright suites. It is small: nine suites and The Villa on the grounds. The Unique Suites keep parts of the original house, the Ocean Suites are on the upper floor with a balcony. According to the hotel, every unit has a sea view and a kitchenette.
WHITE welcomes guests from the age of 14. Casa da Rocha, a separate house about 450 metres from the main building, can be booked on its own and welcomes younger children; its pool belongs to that house. Worth knowing when you compare photos.
In the evening you eat at CARDUME in the house: fish from the Atlantic, Azorean produce and vegetables from the group's farm, again with Vítor Sobral as consulting chef. There is also a heated outdoor pool, massages and yoga, and The Hut looking out over the cliff. The house runs trips out to sea on its own motorboat.
Ponta Delgada is close. For an evening in town, Õtaka is on our list, Nikkei cooking with Azorean produce, open Tuesday to Saturday evenings according to its website and only with a reservation. By day, the Arruda pineapple plantation in Fajã de Baixo is worth a visit, free of charge according to the owners.
The south coast suits you if you travel as a couple, want quiet and like to head into town in the evening.
And Furnas?
Furnas, with the Parque Terra Nostra, a large garden with a thermal pool, is a day trip from either coast rather than a place you need to stay. Plan a full day and check current opening times and tickets on the park's website beforehand.
In short
North coast and Santa Bárbara: the beach on your doorstep, plenty of space, a kitchenette, good for families and anyone who wants to surf or swim. In winter the beach club is closed.
South coast and WHITE: a handful of suites, guests from 14, cliffs instead of sand, Ponta Delgada nearby.
If you want both, split your stay. The two houses belong to the same group, and the island is not large.
