Travel

Transylvania beyond Dracula: Szeklerland, forests and Zabola

1 October 2026 · 4 min

A trip to Transylvania need not start at the castle. In Szeklerland, in Covasna County, it is about forest, horses, wildlife and a lived-in estate as your base. What to do there, when to go and what to sort out before you travel.

Say Transylvania and most people think of Dracula first. For a quieter trip there is another way in: Szeklerland, with its forests, pastures and villages, and houses you stay in rather than simply visit. This piece covers the practical questions: what to do, when to go, how to arrive and where to stay.

Our recommendation for a base is Zabola Estate in Zăbala, Covasna County. The estate has been tied to the Mikes family for centuries, was confiscated in 1949 and has been restored by Gregor and Alexander Roy Chowdhury since the early 2000s. We have already published a full portrait of the house; this is about the surrounding country and how to explore it from Zabola.

Three walkers on a forest path among autumn leaves. Photo: Pauline Roy Chowdhury / Zabola Estate

What to do: forest, park and wildlife

According to the estate, the castle park covers around 50 hectares and sits within a managed landscape of more than 500 hectares. The easiest way into the area is therefore on foot, through the park and the woods, with no car and no schedule.

If you hope to see bears, book an outing to the wildlife hide. The estate says a ranger drives guests out by Land Rover, the trip takes two to three hours, children can join from the age of eight and groups are limited to eight. A sighting is not guaranteed.

A horse in a meadow in the morning mist. Photo: Pauline Roy Chowdhury / Zabola Estate

A coachman on a two-horse carriage outside a yellow building. Photo: Zabola Estate

On horseback

Horses are part of Zabola's history. According to the estate, the Count Mikes Stud dates back to the late 17th century and was revived in 2018. Guests can choose between pony rides, rides through the park and longer rides into the forest. The estate gives a weight limit of 85 kilograms for riders; ask about age and other requirements when you book.

If you do not ride, the estate also offers carriage rides and quad tours as another way to see the area. Arrange both with the house in advance.

Snow in the park, frost on the trees and the yellow manor house behind. Photo: Pauline Roy Chowdhury / Zabola Estate

When to go

That depends on what you want to do. The estate runs its bear-watching outings until the first snowfall. If wildlife is the point of the trip, plan for the snow-free part of the year.

The wood-fired forest sauna with its cold plunge pool, on the other hand, is open all year according to the estate and takes up to six people. In winter Zabola becomes a place for walks in the snow, the sauna and long evenings indoors.

Where to stay: Zabola as a base

At Zabola you do not stay in one hotel building but in several historic houses spread across the park. The New Castle and the Machine House have rooms and suites, while the Old Saddle House and the Garden House are let as whole houses. The New Yard, around seven minutes' walk away near the stables according to the estate, has sleeping lofts for children. For families, and for anyone who mainly wants to ride, it is the obvious choice.

Meals are at Zabola Style, the restaurant, which works with seasonal produce from suppliers in the surrounding villages, vegetables and herbs from the estate's kitchen garden and honey from its own bees. The wine list runs to more than 100 wines, according to the estate. Since dinner is taken care of on site, you do not have to drive out every evening.

For somewhere even more remote, Dobrica Hunting Lodge above Bixad belongs to the estate but lies around 60 kilometres away. According to the estate it has four bedrooms for up to ten guests, a sauna and a hot tub, and only limited Wi-Fi. Dobrica is a stay of its own, not part of the main grounds.

A lit half-timbered guest house in snowy woods at dusk. Photo: Pauline Roy Chowdhury / Zabola Estate

The forest sauna, built of timber planks, lit up at night. Photo: Pauline Roy Chowdhury / Zabola Estate

Getting there and what to check first

Zabola is in Zăbala, Covasna County; the estate gives its address as Zăbala 437. We do not have reliable driving times from the airports, so ask about the best route and a transfer when you book. If you arrive by electric car, the estate says there is a charging point on site.

Book activities early: the wildlife hide and riding have limited places and their own requirements. Ask about them when you reserve your room.

Choose your house: booking here means choosing a place in the park as well as a room category. Families should check which house can take how many guests.

Breakfast: according to the estate's pricing page, breakfast is not included in the room rate. Bear that in mind when you compare offers.

In the register